Odysses
Set in a prime suburb of Helensburgh overlooking the Clyde and Greenock on the opposite coast, Lethamhill is a premier B&B of Edwardian aspect and unique ambience. Location is all where we're concerned, and that's especially important in this part of Scotland because there are many accommodation listings cited as being in, or near, Helensburgh but which are actually many a long mile, and a long and tiring drive, away: there's no car ferry across Gare Loch to get to them.||||We found Lethamhill as a result of pinpointing our search area before seeking accommodation, and then browsed to Lethamhill's own informative website -- any search engine will instantly find it -- via which we then made our booking direct with the owner. ||||As others have written, this is a property so full of character that it's pretty much impossible to chronicle it all: the sheer exuberant eclecticism of the antiques and collectibles that cram this Helensburgh haven are a delight in themselves, the house's endearingly eccentric interior signalled by the existence of a lovely old GPO red telephone kiosk in the grounds. ||||Credit for all that Lethamhill is goes to its seemingly tireless owner, Jane Johnston, responsible for the house's many comforts, its spotless cleanliness, and individually cooked breakfasts that arrive with many a fresh goodie straight from the Aga.||||Despite its size -- gorgeous lounge, welcoming dining room and a delightful, spacious conservatory --Lethamhill has just three bedrooms, a limitation that's felicitous in this case because its notably international clientele can all meet up over breakfast and swap traveler's tales: no chain hotel is this, a fact that's instantly evident from the sherry and glasses and shortbreads permanently available in the guest lounge.||||Our room was a double-aspect family room, though occupied only by Mrs O and I. Comfort and spaciousness was satisfying enough -- attractive furnishings, big comfy bed, ample wardrobe and drawer provision -- with the ensuite bathroom the icing on this particular cake: bigger than the average hotel bedroom, this was classic, spotless Edwardiana, bath, washbasin, taps, everything -- and with a state-of-the-art shower of sufficient dimension within which to hold a small party. ||||Our main window looked out over the attractive rear garden. It also looked out on the baby deer. Deer, frolicking around the bushes. (And if you think that's diverting enough, just step back and take a drink from the in-room fridge. . . housed within a large Edwardian cabin trunk. You soon begin to wonder at exactly what dimension you've arrived, and if Narnia is on the other side of the wardrobe.)||||Never having been to this particular part of Scotland before, we depended on Jane to help us out. Lethamhill is already well stocked with tourist information brochures, but Jane went the extra mile (unavoidable pun) with fine detail, even down to telling us what cruise liner happened to be moored on what day in the view from our window. She had all the Helensburgh timings for the Waverley paddle steamer, too, though as its schedule didn't match ours, we missed seeing it (no matter: see later travel tip.)||||As to Helensburgh: its charms may not be immediately obvious, for although its promenade is a fine place to be (especially when the tide is in) the frontage is nondescript, offering little in the way of architectural interest. A vastly expensive (for a town of this size) central improvement area is attractive, but to us seemed curiously sterile, given the fact that though it really should be home to a thriving cafe and restaurant quarter. . . it isn't. ||||The prime residential area -- a mile from the seafront -- within which Lethamhill is set is, however, something dazzlingly different: architecture enthusiasts (which we are) cannot but drool over the sheer number of mansions Gothic, Victorian, Edwardian, and sometimes, downright bonkers, that testify here to a quietly enduring merchant wealth. Many another place in the UK has such suburbs, but unlike Helensburgh's, the majority have long since become nursing homes. Not here though.||||That this particular area is home to one of Scotland's most architecturally significant houses, Hill House, is no surprise; disappointment that it is now closed for the foreseeable future for extensive renovation actually detracts not in the slightest from Lethamhill's appeal, because not only is the property perfectly and peacefully located in Helensburgh rather than far from it, a less-than-10-minute stroll from Lethamhill to the Helensburgh Upper railway station brings one to the fantastic -- because it is just that -- West Highland mainline train service. (Just remember to book online at least 24 hours ahead of an intended day out: rail fares on the day are prohibitively expensive, whereas advanced booking can be 40% - and more - cheaper.) ||||In summary, then: an endearingly eccentric Edwardian home, a tireless owner who works and welcomes in equal measure, a tranquil situation overlooking the distant Clyde and a location absolutely perfect for Loch Lomond (a 10-minute drive on the A818, the road into which feeds Lethamhill's lawn-skirted avenue) and the West Highlands railway service. It's certainly a premium priced property, but as the experience of staying here is worth more than you pay for, value-for-money gets no better. ||||Travelers' tips:||(1) Take a day out by train from Helensburgh Upper Station. Jane has the timetables;||(2) Visit The Tower cinema, a converted church run by volunteers that's anything but an amateurish: it screens first-run releases on a big screen with perfect sound (and no agonizing half hour advert programming, either). We watched the new "Mamma Mia" movie last week; it beat our experience of London's Leicester Square Odeon hands down, and at a fraction of the price;||(3) Use Helensburgh's 'lower' railway station for trips to Glasgow. Takes 40 minutes;||(4) When visiting Loch Lomond, be VERY careful to follow the signs to the actual Loch ferries / water buses, otherwise you'll wind up in the main, vast, car park of Ballooch's Loch Lomond shores development;||(5) If you can't match your itinerary to that of the Waverley paddle steamer, then worry not: The Maid of The Loch, a £multi-miliion restoration project of a stunningly gorgeous paddle steamer, is now nearing completion at Balloch. Excellent onboard cafe, and a great little ship to explore. .
